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Sauce

Tomato Soy

A sauce of salted, boiled tomatoes and onions flavoured with cloves, allspice, black pepper and cayenne, bottled for keeping.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Clove and allspice match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 7,874 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

Tomato Soy

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the tomatoes

  1. Sprinkle the bottom of a large tub with coarse sea salt.

  2. Layer the sliced tomatoes in the tub, sprinkling ½ pint of salt and 3 sliced onions over each 2-inch layer.

  3. Let the mixture sit for 3 days.

Cook and strain

  1. Transfer the tomatoes to a large iron pot and boil, stirring constantly, from morning until night.

  2. The next morning, pass the mixture through a sieve, pressing to extract all the liquid.

  3. Add cloves, allspice, black pepper, and Cayenne to the liquid.

  4. Boil the mixture slowly all day.

Cool and bottle

  1. In the evening, transfer to a suitable vessel to cool.

  2. The next day, bottle and cork it well, storing in a cool place.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Clove + allspicetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together7,874 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Clove + peppertop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together17,451 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).

  3. Allspice + peppertop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,395 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  4. Tomato + peppertop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together17,923 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  5. Tomato + oniontop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together20,633 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Ripe tomatoes
Provide the main body and liquid that becomes the sauce once cooked and strained.
Coarse sea salt
Draws moisture out of the tomatoes and helps preserve the mixture during the long rest.
Onions
Add savory flavor and body to the tomato liquid as it cooks down.
Cloves
Add warm, aromatic spice flavor to the finished sauce.
Allspice
Adds warm, aromatic spice flavor to the finished sauce.
Cayenne pepper
Adds sharp heat to the finished sauce.

The step that matters

Boiling the strained liquid slowly all day. Long, gentle boiling concentrates the liquid and drives off water, thickening the sauce and deepening its flavor. Too little time leaves it thin and under-seasoned, while boiling too hard can scorch the solids and sugars sticking to the pot.

Swap the onion

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (tomato, clove, allspice, pepper):

  1. Capsicumfits better
  2. Carrotfits better
  3. Eggplantfits better
  4. Onionthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against tomato, clove, allspice, pepper. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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