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Glaize for Hams, Larding, Roasted Poultry, &C

A clarified stock made from veal, ham, beef, fowls, vegetables, and aromatics, finished with egg whites and yolks.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
From a historical cookbook (Internet Archive) · 15 ingredients
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Why it works: Turnip and leek match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 1,046 recipes. Both carry coumarin, which smells sweet, hay. The science ↓

Glaize for Hams, Larding, Roasted Poultry, &C

Ingredients

Directions

Make the stock

  1. Combine veal, ham, beef, fowls, celery, turnips, carrots, onions, leeks, lemon peel, mace, and black pepper in a pot with 3 quarts of water.

  2. Sweat the mixture down until three parts done.

  3. Add enough water to cover the meat and boil until the goodness is extracted.

  4. Skim and strain the liquid into a large pan.

Clarify and reduce

  1. The next day, remove the fat cleanly.

  2. Set the stock over heat and warm it.

  3. Whisk in the whites and a few yolks of eggs to clarify.

  4. Add a little color and strain through a tamis.

  5. Boil quickly until reduced to a glaze, being careful not to let it burn.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Turnip + leektop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,046 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  2. Celery + carrottop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together10,173 recipes

    Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).

  3. Turnip + carrottop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together8,002 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  4. Celery + turniptop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together4,418 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  5. Carrot + leektop 3% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,310 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Veal
Gives body and gelatin, so the stock sets to a rich glaze when reduced.
Whites and yolks of eggs
Whites trap particles as they cook, clarifying the stock to a clear liquid.
Onions
Add aromatic sweetness and depth of flavor to the stock.
Leeks
Contribute mild, savory aroma and flavor to the stock.

The step that matters

Boil quickly until reduced to a glaze, being careful not to let it burn.. As water evaporates, proteins and sugars concentrate, and they scorch easily at high heat. Burnt flavor spoils the glaze, so it needs close attention and stirring.

Swap the onion

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (veal, ham, beef, celery, turnip, carrot, leek):

  1. Parsnipfits better
  2. Lettucefits about as well
  3. Chivefits about as well
  4. Onionthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against veal, ham, beef, celery, turnip, carrot, leek. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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