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Breast of Veal Ragout

A ragout of veal breast, lard, stock, morels, truffles, sweetbread, egg balls, artichokes, ketchup, cayenne, salt, and lemon juice.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Artichoke and lemon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 2% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 636 recipes. Both carry 1-octen-3-ol, which smells mushroom, earthy. The science ↓

Breast of Veal Ragout

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the veal

  1. Remove the under bone from the breast of veal and cut it in half lengthwise.

  2. Cut the pieces into medium-sized portions.

  3. Fry the pieces in a little lard until light brown.

  4. Wipe them dry and place in a stewpan with ½ pint of veal stock.

Simmer and finish

  1. Simmer until nearly done and the liquid is almost reduced.

  2. Add blanched morels, truffles, sweetbread slices, egg balls, artichoke bottoms, ketchup, and season with cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon juice.

  3. Let everything stew together until fully cooked.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Artichoke + lemontop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together636 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-ol (mushroom, earthy).

  2. Pepper + lemontop 3% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together27,047 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-nonenal (cardboard, fatty).

  3. Artichoke + peppertop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,170 recipes

    Shared aroma: nonanal (fat, citrus).

  4. Veal + truffletop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together815 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-nonadienal (fatty, green).

  5. Truffle + artichoketop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together240 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-one (mushroom, metallic).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Breast of veal
Forms the meat base of the ragout, becoming tender through long gentle stewing.
Lard
Fat used to brown the veal pieces, adding colour and savoury flavour.
Veal stock
Liquid that cooks the veal and reduces to a concentrated, glossy sauce.
Blanched morels
Add earthy, meaty aroma and a distinctive texture to the ragout.
Truffles
Contribute a strong, aromatic earthy flavour that defines the dish.
Slices of throat sweetbread
Add a soft, creamy texture and delicate richness to the stew.

The step that matters

Simmer until nearly done and the liquid is almost reduced. Reducing the stock concentrates its flavour and thickens it into a sauce. Stopping too early leaves a thin, watery liquid, while over-reducing can make it salty and sticky.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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