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Soubise Cutlets

Soubise cutlets are neck chops cooked with a soubise sauce of onions, butter, flour, milk, and seasonings.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Pepper and lemon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 3% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 27,047 recipes. Both carry trans-2-nonenal, which smells cardboard, fatty. The science ↓

Soubise Cutlets

Ingredients

Directions

The book gives no oven temperature. The 400°F (200°C) in the steps was added when the recipe was transcribed, as a starting point.

Prepare the cutlets

  1. Trim the cutlets.

  2. Lay them in a tin dish, covering with buttered paper.

  3. Bake in a 400°F (200°C) oven for 15 to 20 minutes, turning once while cooking.

Make the soubise sauce

  1. Peel the onions.

  2. Place them in cold water.

  3. Bring to a boil and discard the water.

  4. Add the onions back into cold water.

  5. Boil until soft.

  6. Strain the water away.

  7. Add the butter to the onions.

  8. Heat until hot.

  9. Cover and finish cooking without browning.

  10. Stir in the flour.

  11. Pour in the milk and stir until it boils.

  12. Let it boil for 2-3 minutes.

  13. Rub the mixture through a sieve.

  14. Season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice.

Finish and serve

  1. Dish the cutlets in a circle.

  2. Pour off some fat.

  3. Rinse the tin with a spoonful of gravy.

  4. Pour the gravy around the dish.

  5. Place the soubise sauce in the center.

  6. Serve hot.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Pepper + lemontop 3% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together27,047 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-nonenal (cardboard, fatty).

  2. Butter + milktop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together81,283 recipes

    Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).

  3. Onion + peppertop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together68,474 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  4. Butter + flourtop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together124,287 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  5. Flour + milktop 14% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together78,219 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

Butter and flour barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Onions
Break down into a soft, smooth purée that forms the body of the sauce.
Butter
Adds richness and fat, carrying flavour and giving the sauce a silky mouthfeel.
Flour
Thickens the milk and onion mixture into a smooth, coating sauce.
Milk
Liquid that, with the flour, forms the body of the sauce and mellows its flavour.
Neck chops
Main protein, cooked in the oven until tender and browned at the surface.

The step that matters

Cover and finish cooking the onions without browning. Browning onions turns their sugars bitter and dark, changing the pale, sweet flavour soubise depends on. Gentle covered heat softens them while keeping the sauce pale.

Swap the onion

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (butter, flour, milk, pepper, lemon):

  1. Arrowrootfits better
  2. Shallotfits better
  3. Potatofits better
  4. Onionthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against butter, flour, milk, pepper, lemon. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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