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Chartreuse a LA Parisienne

A French dish of truffles, crayfish tails, veal farce, and ragout assembled in a molded form and steamed.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
From a historical cookbook (Internet Archive) · 11 ingredients
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Why it works: Truffle and mushroom are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 4% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 1,900 recipes. Both carry 2,4-nonadienal, which smells fatty, green. The science ↓

Chartreuse a LA Parisienne

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the mold

  1. Cut truffles into thin collops using a round cutter.

  2. Remove tails from boiled crayfish.

  3. Prepare a mold with clarified butter.

  4. Cut paper for the bottom and sides of the mold.

  5. Form a ring at the bottom of the mold with truffles.

  6. Place crayfish tails in the center of the ring.

Prepare the fillets

  1. Cut fillets from the fowl. Flatten the fillets. Trim the fillets.

  2. Sauté the fillets until cooked.

  3. Press the fillets against the sides of the mold with butter.

  4. Leave space for truffles.

  5. Fill the bottom and sides with veal farce to cover the garniture.

Make the ragout

  1. Prepare a ragout with sweetbreads, truffles, mushrooms, artichoke bottoms, and collops of fowl in reduced bechamel sauce.

  2. Cool the ragout.

  3. Fill the chartreuse to within half an inch of the top with the ragout.

Cover and steam

  1. Butter a piece of paper. Spread farce over the paper.

  2. Cover the top of the mold with the paper and farce.

  3. Remove the paper with a hot salamander.

  4. Seal the edges with farce.

  5. Place the chartreuse in a stewpan.

  6. Pour boiling water one-third up the mold.

  7. Cover with paper.

  8. Close the stewpan.

  9. Steam for one hour.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Truffle + mushroomtop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,900 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-nonadienal (fatty, green).

  2. Butter + mushroomtop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together12,525 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-decenal (waxy, orange).

  3. Mushroom + artichoketop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together447 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-one (mushroom, metallic).

  4. Crayfish + saucetop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together195 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethanol (alcoholic, ethereal).

  5. Truffle + vealtop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together815 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-nonadienal (fatty, green).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Truffles
Add earthy aroma and a luxurious flavour to the garnish and ragout.
Veal farce
Forms a firm, cohesive lining and cover that holds the garniture together.
Fowl fillets
Provide the tender, mild meat that forms the body of the chartreuse.
Bechamel sauce
Binds the ragout so its pieces hold together and stay moist.
Sweetbreads
Contribute a soft, delicate texture to the ragout filling.

The step that matters

Steam for one hour. Gentle, even steam heat sets the farce and fowl without drying them. Boiling water must stay at one-third of the mold's height, so the mold is not submerged and the farce cooks evenly.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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