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French Dressing

A creamy dressing made with sugar, flour, egg yolks, milk, mustard, and vinegar.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Milk and butter are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 81,283 recipes. Both carry (z)-4-heptenal, which smells biscuit, cream. The science ↓

French Dressing

Ingredients

Directions

  1. In a double boiler, combine sugar, flour, egg yolks, milk, salt, mustard, red pepper, butter, and vinegar.

  2. Cook until the mixture thickens, stirring occasionally.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Milk + buttertop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together81,283 recipes

    Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).

  2. Mustard + vinegartop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together14,067 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  3. Mustard + peppertop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together15,430 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  4. Flour + buttertop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together124,287 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  5. Flour + mustardtop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together5,066 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

Flour and butter barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Egg yolks
Thicken the cooked dressing and add richness through their proteins setting as they heat.
Flour
Thickens the liquid as its starch swells with heat, giving the dressing body.
Vinegar
Adds the sharp acidity that defines the dressing's tangy flavour.
Butter
Adds fat for a smoother mouthfeel and a rounder, richer finish.
Sugar
Balances the sharpness of the vinegar with sweetness.

The step that matters

Cook until the mixture thickens. Egg yolks can curdle or scramble if overheated, while too little heat leaves the flour starch unswollen and the dressing thin. Gentle, steady heat with frequent stirring gives a smooth, thickened result.

Swap the mustard

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, flour, egg, milk, pepper, butter, vinegar):

  1. Capsicumfits better
  2. Shallotfits about as well
  3. Mustardthe original
  4. Chivefits about as well

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, flour, egg, milk, pepper, butter, vinegar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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