Why it works: Cinnamon and allspice match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 5,536 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓
Tomato Chow-chow
Ingredients
Directions
Prepare
Sprinkle salt over chopped onions and tomatoes; let stand overnight.
Drain well and cook in weak vinegar slowly for 1 hour.
Combine and pack
Drain off the vinegar and add chopped cabbage, celery seed, cinnamon, mustard seed, allspice, horseradish, and sugar. Mix well and pack into a jar.
Add enough vinegar to make it slightly thin and to preserve.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Cinnamon + allspicetop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together5,536 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
-
Celery + mustardtop 2% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together4,169 recipes
Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).
-
Mustard + allspicetop 2% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together1,928 recipes
Shared aroma: methyleugenol (clove, spice).
-
Cabbage + mustardtop 3% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together1,645 recipes
Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).
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Tomato + celerytop 4% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together3,377 recipes
Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Green tomatoes
- Form the bulk of the relish and release moisture that the salt draws out.
- Onions
- Add pungent savour and body that softens during the slow cooking.
- Cabbage
- Adds crisp texture and bulk that holds its shape within the relish.
- Sugar
- Balances the vinegar's acidity and adds sweetness.
- Horseradish
- Contributes sharp pungency that mellows during storage.
The step that matters
Drain well before cooking. Salt draws water out of the tomatoes and onions overnight. Draining thoroughly removes that liquid so the relish does not turn watery, and the vinegar added later can be controlled.
Swap the tomato
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (onion, vinegar, cabbage, celery, cinnamon, mustard, allspice):
- Horseradishfits better
- Broccolifits better
- Turnipfits better
- Tomatothe original
Fit is the average pairing score against onion, vinegar, cabbage, celery, cinnamon, mustard, allspice. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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