Why it works: Milk and butter are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 81,283 recipes. Both carry (z)-4-heptenal, which smells biscuit, cream. The science ↓
Sally Lunn
Ingredients
Directions
The book says “a quick oven”. The 400°F (200°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.
Prepare
Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).
In a bowl, mix the cream of tartar with the flour.
Dissolve the baking soda in the milk.
Make the batter
In a separate bowl, beat the eggs and sugar until light and fluffy.
Add the milk mixture and melted butter to the egg mixture, then stir in the flour mixture until just combined.
Pour the batter into a greased baking dish.
Bake
Bake in the preheated oven until golden brown and a toothpick inserted comes out clean.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Milk + buttertop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together81,283 recipes
Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).
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Butter + creamtop 8% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together41,516 recipes
Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).
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Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together43,450 recipes
Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).
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Butter + flourtop 12% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together124,287 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Milk + flourtop 14% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together78,219 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
Butter and flour barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Eggs
- Provide structure and richness, setting the crumb as they cook and helping the bread rise.
- Flour
- Forms the structure of the crumb once its gluten and starch set in the oven.
- Sugar
- Sweetens the bread and helps it brown while beating adds air to the eggs.
- Milk
- Adds moisture and tenderness, and its proteins help the crust brown.
- Butter
- Adds fat for softer texture and richness in the crumb.
- Baking soda
- Reacts with the cream of tartar to produce gas that makes the bread rise.
The step that matters
Stir the flour mixture in until just combined. Overmixing develops too much gluten, making the bread tough and dense. Stop once no dry flour streaks remain, so the batter stays light and the leavening gas is preserved.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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