Why it works: Butter and milk are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 81,283 recipes. Both carry (z)-4-heptenal, which smells biscuit, cream. The science ↓
Railroad Cake
Ingredients
Directions
The book gives no oven temperature. The 350°F (175°C) in the steps was added when the recipe was transcribed, as a starting point.
Prepare
Preheat your oven to 350°F (175°C).
Rub the cream of tartar thoroughly into the flour.
Dissolve the baking soda in the milk.
Beat the yolks and whites of the eggs separately.
Make the batter
Cream the butter and sugar together until smooth.
Add the beaten eggs, milk with dissolved soda, salt, lemon juice, and flour with cream of tartar to the mixture. Mix until well combined.
Bake
Pour into a greased baking pan and bake until golden.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Butter + milktop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together81,283 recipes
Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).
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Butter + creamtop 8% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together41,516 recipes
Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).
-
Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together43,450 recipes
Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).
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Milk + coffeetop 10% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together2,202 recipes
Shared aroma: 4-heptenal (creamy, biscuit).
-
Butter + flourtop 12% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together124,287 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
Butter and flour barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Eggs
- Beaten separately and folded in, they add structure and lift to the cake.
- Baking soda
- Reacts with the acid in the cream of tartar and lemon juice to produce gas, helping the cake rise.
- Cream of tartar
- Acidifies the batter so it reacts with the baking soda, producing lift and a tender crumb.
- Butter
- Creamed with sugar to add fat, richness and tenderness to the crumb.
- Flour
- Provides the structure that holds the cake together as it bakes.
- Sugar
- Creamed with butter for sweetness and a fine, even texture.
The step that matters
Dissolve the baking soda in the milk before adding it to the batter. Baking soda must be fully dissolved so it spreads evenly and reacts with the acids in the batter. Undissolved pockets can leave bitter spots and uneven rising.
Swap the lemon
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, butter, egg, milk, cream, coffee, flour):
- Vanillafits better
- Raisinfits better
- Figfits better
- Lemonthe original
Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, butter, egg, milk, cream, coffee, flour. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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