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Mock Turtle Soup

A soup made from calf's head stock, butter, flour, vegetables, eggs, Madeira wine, and lemon juice.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Lemon and sage match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 2% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 887 recipes. Both carry 3-hexenal, which smells apple, fruity. The science ↓

Mock Turtle Soup

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the stock

  1. Remove the fat from the cold stock.

  2. Heat the stock.

  3. Cut the best part of the skin into 2-inch squares. Set the skin squares aside along with the ears.

  4. Dice the rest of the head into half-inch pieces.

Make the soup

  1. Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a thick saucepan.

  2. Add 1½ tablespoons of flour to the butter. Stir until the mixture is light brown.

  3. Gradually add 1 quart of stock. Stir until the mixture is smooth.

  4. Add the bay leaf, onion, carrot, and seasonings. Boil slowly for 30 minutes.

  5. Strain the mixture. Add the strained mixture back to the gently boiling stock.

  6. Remove any scum for a clear soup.

  7. Reserve 1 quart of stock for another dish.

  8. Add the diced calf's head to the soup.

  9. Color the soup with caramel if desired.

Prepare the garnish and serve

  1. Hard boil the eggs. Cool the eggs. Chop the yolks.

  2. Place the yolks in a soup tureen.

  3. Add the Madeira wine and the lemon juice to the yolks.

  4. Pour the soup over the yolks.

  5. Serve with thin slices of lemon.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Lemon + sagetop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together887 recipes

    Shared aroma: 3-hexenal (apple, fruity).

  2. Clove + sagetop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together731 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  3. Clove + carrottop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together5,873 recipes

    Shared aroma: cuminaldehyde (Spicy, cumin).

  4. Onion + carrottop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together21,601 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  5. Carrot + sagetop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together480 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Butter
Enriches the soup and, with flour, forms the roux that thickens it.
Flour (in the method)
Thickens the stock when cooked with butter into a roux.
Eggs
Chopped yolks in the tureen add richness and body to the finished soup.
Madeira wine
Adds aromatic sweetness and depth to the yolks and soup.
Lemon juice
Adds acidity that brightens the rich stock and yolks.

The step that matters

Stirring the flour and butter until light brown. The roux must cook long enough to lose its raw flour taste and thicken well, but not so long that it darkens too far and changes the soup's color and flavor.

Swap the onion

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (butter, egg, lemon, madeira wine, clove, carrot, sage):

  1. Shallotfits better
  2. Leekfits better
  3. Parsnipfits better
  4. Onionthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against butter, egg, lemon, madeira wine, clove, carrot, sage. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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