Skip to main content
Salad

Salad Deessing

A vinaigrette made with egg yolks, mustard, olive oil, sugar, salt, lemon juice, and optional sweet cream.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
Jump to recipe ↓

Why it works: Olive and lemon are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 11,922 recipes. Both carry 3-hexenal, which smells apple, fruity. The science ↓

Salad Deessing

Ingredients

Directions

Make the dressing

  1. In a bowl, beat the yolks of two raw eggs with one teaspoon of prepared mustard mixed with water.

  2. Slowly add olive oil drop by drop while stirring constantly until the mixture thickens.

  3. Add two teaspoons of powdered sugar and a scant ¼ teaspoon of salt; mix thoroughly.

  4. Squeeze in the juice of one lemon and beat well.

  5. If the dressing is too thick, thin it with a little sweet cream.

Variation

  1. For a variation, omit the lemon and cream and use vinegar instead.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Olive + lemontop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together11,922 recipes

    Shared aroma: 3-hexenal (apple, fruity).

  2. Mustard + olivetop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together5,950 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  3. Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together43,450 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).

  4. Mustard + lemontop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together3,816 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  5. Sugar + lemontop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

Sugar and lemon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Egg yolks
Emulsify the oil and water, giving the dressing its thick, creamy body.
Olive oil
Supplies the fat that forms the body of the dressing when whisked into the yolks.
Made mustard
Helps stabilise the emulsion and adds sharp flavour.
Lemon juice
Adds acidity that brightens the dressing and balances the richness of the oil.
Powdered sugar
Adds a little sweetness that rounds out the acidity.

The step that matters

Adding the olive oil. Oil must be added drop by drop while stirring constantly, so the yolks can absorb it into a stable emulsion. Adding it too fast makes the dressing separate and fail to thicken.

Swap the mustard

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (egg, olive, sugar, lemon, cream):

  1. Spinachfits better
  2. Asparagusfits better
  3. Capsicumfits better
  4. Mustardthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against egg, olive, sugar, lemon, cream. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

More salad dressing recipes

You might also like