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Salmi De Perdreau H LA Montglas

A partridge dish cooked with butter, stock, sherry, espagnole, tomato sauce, and served with fried bread crust and puff pastry fleurons.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
From a historical cookbook (Internet Archive) · 16 ingredients
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Why it works: Mushroom and truffle are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 4% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 1,900 recipes. Both carry 2,4-nonadienal, which smells fatty, green. The science ↓

Salmi De Perdreau H LA Montglas

Oven, in the book's wordsA hot oven

Ingredients

Directions

The book says “a hot oven”. The 400°F (200°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.

Prepare the partridges

  1. Roast the partridges until half done, then let them cool.

  2. Divide the birds into neat joints.

Make the sauce

  1. In a flat stew-pan, melt the butter and add the sliced onion and carrot along with the bouquet garni.

  2. Add the partridge pieces and season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg.

  3. Cook in a 400 °F (200 °C) oven for about 10 minutes, then pour off the butter.

  4. Moisten with stock, sherry, espagnole, and tomato sauce, cover, and simmer gently for about 30 minutes.

  5. Remove the partridge pieces and strain the sauce over them.

  6. Cut the ox-tongue, mushrooms, and truffles into julienne shapes and add to the sauce, simmering for another 10 minutes.

Assemble and serve

  1. Place a fried bread crust in the center of a hot dish, securing it with a little batter.

  2. Arrange the partridge pieces around the crust and pour the sauce over them.

  3. Decorate with puff pastry fleurons brushed with meat glaze and serve hot.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Mushroom + truffletop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,900 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-nonadienal (fatty, green).

  2. Sherry + mushroomtop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,176 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-methoxy-4-methylphenol (smoky, clove).

  3. Tomato + carrottop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together3,606 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  4. Onion + carrottop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together21,601 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  5. Tomato + mushroomtop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together2,719 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-one (mushroom, metallic).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Partridges
Lean game meat that becomes tender through gentle, moist cooking rather than high heat.
Butter
Fat that carries the flavour of the onion, carrot and herbs and helps the birds brown.
Espagnole sauce
Brown sauce base that gives the braising liquid body and savoury depth.
Tomato sauce
Adds acidity and a rounded, slightly sharp flavour that balances the rich brown sauce.
Sherry
Adds acidity and aromatic richness to the sauce as it simmers.
Truffles
Contribute a strong earthy aroma that flavours the finished sauce.

The step that matters

Simmering the partridge pieces gently after the partial roast. Partridge is very lean, so it dries out and toughens if boiled or overcooked. Holding the sauce at a gentle simmer for about 30 minutes finishes the meat while keeping it moist and tender.

Swap the carrot

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (butter, sherry, sauce, tomato, mushroom, truffle, onion):

  1. Capsicumfits better
  2. Potatofits better
  3. Shallotfits better
  4. Carrotthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against butter, sherry, sauce, tomato, mushroom, truffle, onion. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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