Why it works: Allspice and clove match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and 7,874 recipes mention both. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓
Piquant Sauce, for Storing
Ingredients
Directions
Prepare the walnuts and mushrooms
Bruise the walnuts and mushrooms separately in pans, sprinkling a little salt while bruising.
Let them sit for a week, turning and bruising frequently.
Press them well and drain off the liquid.
Boil the liquid until the scum ceases to rise.
Make the sauce
Mix equal parts of the boiled liquid and vinegar.
Add mace, allspice, cloves, ginger, cayenne, mustard seed, garlic, and shallots.
Boil and skim the sauce for 20 minutes.
Strain the sauce when cold and mix in port, claret, and soy sauce.
Bottle and store
Pour into small bottles, cork, seal, and store in a cool, dry place.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much aroma chemistry they share, and how many recipes mention both.
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Allspice + clovetop 1% of all pairsAroma overlapstrongMentioned together7,874 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
-
Clove + gingertop 1% of all pairsAroma overlapstrongMentioned together6,038 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
-
Allspice + gingertop 1% of all pairsAroma overlapstrongMentioned together2,620 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
-
Clove + peppertop 5% of all pairsAroma overlapstrongMentioned together17,451 recipes
Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).
-
Allspice + peppertop 5% of all pairsAroma overlapstrongMentioned together6,395 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Walnuts
- Their juice and natural compounds give the sauce its dark colour and deep, bitter-savoury flavour.
- Mushrooms
- Release liquid and savoury, umami flavour that forms the base of the sauce.
- Coarse sea salt
- Draws moisture out of the walnuts and mushrooms and helps preserve the sauce.
- Vinegar
- Adds acidity that sharpens the flavour and helps keep the sauce stable.
- Port wine
- Adds sweetness, body and fruity depth to the finished sauce.
The step that matters
Boil the liquid until the scum ceases to rise. Boiling coagulates proteins and impurities so they float to the surface where they can be skimmed off. Removing them keeps the sauce clear and stops it spoiling sooner.
Flavor stand-ins for the mace
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (walnut, mushroom, vinegar, allspice, clove, ginger, pepper):
- Cinnamonbetter flavor fit
- Thymebetter flavor fit
- Nutmegbetter flavor fit
- Macethe original
Fit is the average pairing score against walnut, mushroom, vinegar, allspice, clove, ginger, pepper. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes. This compares flavor only: it does not check the job the ingredient does in the dish (bulk, moisture, acidity, structure).
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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