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Salad

Salad Sauce

A creamy dressing made from mashed egg yolks, Parmesan, mustard, tarragon vinegar, ketchup, salad oil, and elder vinegar.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Mustard and tarragon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 901 recipes. Both carry methyleugenol, which smells clove, spice. The science ↓

Salad Sauce

Ingredients

Directions

  1. Mash the hard-boiled egg yolks in a bowl.

  2. Add grated Parmesan cheese, mustard, tarragon vinegar, and ketchup; mix well.

  3. Slowly incorporate salad oil and elder vinegar, beating until combined.

  4. Do not pour the mixture over the salad; leave it at the bottom to stir in when ready to serve.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Mustard + tarragontop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together901 recipes

    Shared aroma: methyleugenol (clove, spice).

  2. Tarragon + vinegartop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together2,547 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  3. Mustard + vinegartop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together14,067 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  4. Parmesan cheese + mustardtop 17% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together545 recipes

    Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).

  5. Mustard + ketchuptop 17% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together331 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethanol (alcoholic, ethereal).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Hard-boiled egg yolks
Mashed yolks form a rich, emulsifying base that gives the dressing body.
Salad oil
Adds fat and smoothness, carrying flavour and giving the dressing a creamy texture.
Elder vinegar
Adds acidity that brightens the dressing and balances the richness of the oil.
Grated parmesan cheese
Contributes savoury, salty flavour and umami to the dressing.

The step that matters

Slowly incorporate the salad oil. Adding oil slowly while beating lets the egg yolk emulsify it into a stable, smooth dressing. Pouring it in quickly can cause the mixture to separate and look greasy.

Swap the tarragon

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (egg, parmesan cheese, mustard, vinegar, ketchup):

  1. Capersfits better
  2. Tarragonthe original
  3. Celeryfits less well
  4. Allspicefits less well

Fit is the average pairing score against egg, parmesan cheese, mustard, vinegar, ketchup. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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