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Windermere Ketchup

A fermented mushroom-based ketchup seasoned with salt, allspice, peppercorns, horseradish, shallots, and bay leaves.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Horseradish and shallot match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 376 recipes. Both carry coumarin, which smells sweet, hay. The science ↓

Windermere Ketchup

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the mushrooms

  1. Gather the mushrooms before they are discolored by the sun.

  2. Wipe the mushrooms with a clean cloth.

  3. Break the mushrooms into an earthen pan.

  4. Layer the mushrooms with a handful of coarse sea salt for every three handfuls of mushrooms.

  5. Stir the mixture well with a stick or wooden spoon three to four times a day until the mushrooms dissolve.

  6. Transfer the mixture to a boiler.

  7. Simmer the mixture over low heat until it becomes liquid.

  8. Strain the hot liquid through a fine sieve.

Flavour and bottle

  1. Boil the strained liquid gently with allspice, peppercorns, horseradish, shallots, and bay leaves.

  2. Remove the dark scum.

  3. Strain the liquid into a large bottle or jar.

  4. Once cold, cork the bottle.

  5. Tie a bladder over the cork.

Reboil and bottle again

  1. After three months, boil the liquid again with peppercorns, fresh allspice, horseradish, shallots, and bay leaves.

  2. Let it simmer for half an hour after boiling.

  3. Strain into small bottles.

  4. Once cold, cork the bottles.

  5. Tie a bladder over the corks.

  6. Cover the bottles with sealing wax.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Horseradish + shallottop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together376 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  2. Mushroom + shallottop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,982 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-decadienal (seaweed).

  3. Allspice + horseradishtop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together654 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  4. Allspice + shallottop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together386 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  5. Mushroom + allspicetop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together717 recipes

    Shared aroma: alpha-pinene (pine, turpentine).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Largest mushrooms with broad flaps and red gills
Break down into liquid to form the ketchup's main body and savoury flavour.
Coarse sea salt
Draws moisture out of the mushrooms and preserves the mixture as it breaks down.
Horseradish
Adds a sharp, pungent aroma that gives the liquid its bite.
Shallots
Contribute aromatic savoury depth to the simmered liquid.
Allspice
Adds warm, aromatic spice notes to the boiled liquid.

The step that matters

Remove the dark scum. Scum rising during the gentle boil carries impurities and off-flavours; skimming it keeps the liquid clear and tasting clean before bottling and aging.

Swap the allspice

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (mushroom, horseradish, shallot):

  1. Capersfits better
  2. Tarragonfits better
  3. Thymefits better
  4. Allspicethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against mushroom, horseradish, shallot. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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