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Lemon Pickle or Catsup

A preserved lemon pickle made with salt, horseradish, shallots or garlic, vinegar, ginger, pepper, and mace.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Horseradish and shallot match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 376 recipes. Both carry coumarin, which smells sweet, hay. The science ↓

Lemon Pickle or Catsup

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the lemons

  1. Divide the lemons into quarters and remove all visible seeds.

  2. Sprinkle the salt over the lemons and let them sit for a week.

Make the pickle

  1. After a week, place the lemons in a stone jar with their liquid.

  2. Add the horseradish, shallots (or garlic), and pour in the boiling vinegar.

  3. Simmer the ginger, white pepper, and mace in the vinegar for 2-3 minutes before adding.

Rest and store

  1. Let the pickle sit for 2-3 months before using, but it can be stored for up to 4-5 months before straining.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Horseradish + shallottop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together376 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  2. Lemon + gingertop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together5,154 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).

  3. Lemon + shallottop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together2,523 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  4. Shallot + gingertop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together565 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  5. Lemon + horseradishtop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,155 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Lemons
Provide the sour, aromatic base of the pickle, softened by salt over time.
Coarse sea salt
Draws moisture out of the lemons and preserves them during the week of curing.
Horseradish
Adds sharp pungency that mellows as the pickle matures.
Vinegar
Provides acidity that preserves the lemons and carries the flavours of the spices.
Shallots
Add savoury depth and a mild sharpness to the pickle.

The step that matters

Let the pickle sit for 2-3 months before using. Flavours from the horseradish, aromatics and vinegar mellow and blend slowly over time, so using it too early gives a harsh, unbalanced taste.

Swap the white pepper

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (lemon, horseradish, shallot, vinegar, ginger, mace):

  1. Tarragonfits better
  2. Allspicefits better
  3. Turmericfits better
  4. White pepperthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against lemon, horseradish, shallot, vinegar, ginger, mace. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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