Why it works: Allspice and clove match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 7,874 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓
Mushroom Catsup
Ingredients
Directions
Wash and cut the mushrooms into 2 to 4 pieces.
Layer the mushrooms in a wide, flat jar or crock, sprinkling each layer with coarse sea salt. Let them stand for 24 hours.
Press out the juice and bottle it, then return the mushrooms to the jar.
After another 24 hours, press the mushrooms again and bottle the juice.
Repeat this process one more time, then mix all the extracted juice together.
Add black pepper, allspice, and pounded cloves to the juice, then boil and skim off any scum.
Once cool, bottle the mixture, adding 2 cloves and a peppercorn to each bottle.
Cork and seal the bottles, then store in a dry place.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Allspice + clovetop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together7,874 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
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Pepper + clovetop 5% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together17,451 recipes
Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).
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Pepper + allspicetop 5% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together6,395 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
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Mushroom + clovetop 10% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together2,663 recipes
Shared aroma: alpha-pinene (pine, turpentine).
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Mushroom + peppertop 11% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together13,580 recipes
Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
Swap the allspice
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (mushroom, pepper, clove):
- Thymefits about as well
- Allspicethe original
- Marjoramfits about as well
- Nutmegfits less well
Fit is the average pairing score against mushroom, pepper, clove. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
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