Why it works: Butter and milk are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 81,283 recipes. Both carry (z)-4-heptenal, which smells biscuit, cream. The science ↓
Sally Lunn
Ingredients
Directions
The book gives no oven temperature. The 400°F (200°C) in the steps was added when the recipe was transcribed, as a starting point.
Make the batter
Warm the butter in the milk.
Add salt, sugar, and flour; beat thoroughly.
When the mixture is blood warm, add the beaten eggs and yeast.
Beat hard until the batter breaks into blisters.
Set it to rise overnight.
Bake and serve
In the morning, dissolve baking soda and stir it into the batter.
Pour the batter into a well-buttered shallow dish and let it rise for 15-20 minutes.
Bake at 400°F (200°C) for 15-20 minutes until light brown.
Tear apart to serve; do not cut with a knife.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Butter + milktop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together81,283 recipes
Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).
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Butter + flourtop 12% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together124,287 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Milk + flourtop 14% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together78,219 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Sugar + flourtop 15% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together92,116 recipes
Shared aroma: phenylacetaldehyde (hawthorne, honey).
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Flour + eggtop 15% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together106,462 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
Butter and flour barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Eggs
- Add structure and richness, helping the bread hold its open, tender crumb.
- Yeast
- Produces gas that makes the batter rise and gives the bread its light texture.
- Flour
- Forms the gluten network that gives the bread its body and structure.
- Butter
- Adds fat that softens the crumb and contributes flavour and tenderness.
- Baking soda
- Reacts to add extra lift and help the bread rise during baking.
- Milk
- Provides moisture and softness while helping build a tender crumb.
The step that matters
Beat hard until the batter breaks into blisters. Vigorous beating develops gluten so the batter can trap gas from the yeast. Under-beating leaves a dense loaf that rises poorly.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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