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Boiled Leg of Mutton

A boiled leg of mutton served with a butter‑flour sauce and capers or nasturtium seeds.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Flour and capers match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 6% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 1,024 recipes. Both carry isobutyraldehyde, which smells malty, green. The science ↓

Boiled Leg of Mutton

Ingredients

Directions

Cook the mutton

  1. Trim the shank of the leg of mutton to a suitable length.

  2. Wrap the mutton in mosquito net or tarlatan tightly.

  3. Boil in plenty of salted water for 15 minutes per pound.

  4. Unwrap the mutton.

  5. Place the mutton on a hot dish.

  6. Butter the mutton all over.

  7. Sprinkle the mutton lightly with salt.

  8. Twist frilled paper around the end of the shank.

Make the caper sauce

  1. Strain 1 cup of the cooking liquid for the caper sauce.

  2. Heat the strained liquid.

  3. Skim the liquid.

  4. Stir in 2 tablespoons of butter mixed with 1 teaspoon of flour and pepper.

  5. Bring the sauce to a boil.

  6. Pour the beaten egg over the sauce and stir for 1 minute.

  7. Add the capers or nasturtium seeds.

  8. Pour the sauce into a sauceboat.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Flour + caperstop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,024 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  2. Butter + flourtop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together124,287 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  3. Pepper + caperstop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together2,088 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  4. Flour + eggtop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together106,462 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  5. Butter + caperstop 16% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,637 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

Butter and flour barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Mutton
Forms the main body of the dish, cooked gently in salted water until tender.
Butter
Adds richness and a smooth, rounded flavour to the mutton and the sauce.
Flour
Thickens the cooking liquid into a smooth sauce.
Beaten egg
Enriches and thickens the sauce as it sets gently when stirred in.
Capers or nasturtium seeds
Add a sharp, tangy acidity that cuts the richness of the mutton and sauce.

The step that matters

Pour the beaten egg over the sauce and stir for 1 minute. Egg proteins set with heat and can curdle or turn grainy if the sauce is too hot or the egg is added too quickly. Pour slowly and stir constantly to keep the sauce smooth.

Swap the capers

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (mutton, butter, flour, pepper, egg):

  1. Parsleyfits better
  2. Nutmegfits about as well
  3. Turmericfits about as well
  4. Capersthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against mutton, butter, flour, pepper, egg. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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