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Larded Sweet-breads

Larded sweetbreads stuffed with bread, lemon peel, butter, pepper, nutmeg, and egg yolk, then larded with bacon fat and lemon peel, served with veal gravy.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
From a historical cookbook (Internet Archive) · 12 ingredients
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Why it works: Lemon and pepper match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 3% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 27,047 recipes. Both carry trans-2-nonenal, which smells cardboard, fatty. The science ↓

Larded Sweet-breads

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare

  1. Parboil the sweetbreads until half cooked, then place them in cold water.

  2. Prepare a force-meat by mixing grated bread, lemon peel, butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and beaten egg yolk.

  3. Cut open the sweetbreads and stuff them with the force-meat, securing with a skewer or string.

  4. Lard the sweetbreads with alternating rows of bacon fat and lemon peel using a larding needle.

Bake and serve

  1. Place the sweetbreads in a Dutch oven and bake until browned.

  2. Serve with veal gravy flavored with Madeira and enriched with a stirred-in beaten egg yolk.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Lemon + peppertop 3% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together27,047 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-nonenal (cardboard, fatty).

  2. Lemon + nutmegtop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together11,318 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).

  3. Bread + buttertop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together27,232 recipes

    Shared aroma: delta-decalactone (sweet, creamy).

  4. Pepper + nutmegtop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together13,015 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

  5. Bread + eggtop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together22,662 recipes

    Shared aroma: (e)-2-octenal (fatty, green).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Sweetbreads
Provide the tender, delicate meat that forms the body of the dish.
Grated bread
Absorbs moisture and binds the force-meat so it holds together inside the sweetbreads.
Butter
Adds fat and richness, keeping the force-meat moist and tender as it cooks.
Beaten egg yolk
Helps bind the force-meat and enriches the gravy, adding richness and body.
Bacon fat
Bastes the meat with fat during baking, promoting browning and savory flavor.
Madeira wine
Adds sweetness and aromatic depth to the veal gravy.

The step that matters

Parboil until half cooked, then chill in cold water. Parboiling partly sets the sweetbreads so they hold their shape when cut and stuffed; stopping early keeps them from overcooking and turning dry or firm before baking.

Swap the nutmeg

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (bread, lemon, butter, pepper, egg, veal, madeira wine):

  1. Parsleyfits better
  2. Thymefits about as well
  3. Marjoramfits about as well
  4. Nutmegthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against bread, lemon, butter, pepper, egg, veal, madeira wine. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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