Why it works: Sugar and cream are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 9% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 43,450 recipes. Both carry 2,3-butanedione, which smells butter, sweet. The science ↓
Milanese Cream
Ingredients
Directions
Prepare
Boil the milk and sugar together.
Dissolve the isinglass in the water.
Beat the egg yolks well.
Make the custard
Add the hot milk to the egg yolks, stirring constantly, but do not boil.
Stir over gentle heat until it reaches boiling temperature.
Strain the mixture into a basin.
Stir in the dissolved isinglass and thick cream.
Flavor with essence or liqueur of your choice.
Set and serve
Pour the mixture into a mold greased with almond oil.
Let it stand in a cool place until firmly set.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together43,450 recipes
Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).
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Milk + rumtop 12% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together967 recipes
Shared aroma: ethyl 2-methylbutyrate (fruity, apple).
-
Sugar + rumtop 14% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together2,908 recipes
Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).
-
Rum + almondtop 16% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together313 recipes
Shared aroma: 2,4-decadienal (seaweed).
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Cream + almondtop 16% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together5,130 recipes
Shared aroma: 2-heptanol (bitter, floral).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Egg yolks
- Thicken the custard and add richness through their proteins setting on gentle heat.
- Isinglass
- Gelatin-like setting agent that firms the cream so it holds its shape when chilled.
- Thick cream
- Adds fat for a smooth, rich texture and a softer mouthfeel.
- Loaf sugar
- Sweetens the custard and helps give a smooth, tender texture.
- New milk
- Forms the liquid base of the custard that the yolks thicken.
The step that matters
Stir over gentle heat after adding the milk to the yolks. Egg yolks can curdle or scramble if overheated, so the mixture must be stirred constantly over gentle heat. Heating slowly lets the yolk proteins thicken it smoothly.
Swap the almond
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (milk, sugar, egg, cream, rum):
- Almondthe original
- Pecansfits about as well
- Chestnutfits less well
- Walnutfits less well
Fit is the average pairing score against milk, sugar, egg, cream, rum. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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