Why it works: Butter and milk are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 81,283 recipes. Both carry (z)-4-heptenal, which smells biscuit, cream. The science ↓
Cream-cakes
Ingredients
Directions
The book gives no oven temperature. The 350°F (175°C) in the steps was added when the recipe was transcribed, as a starting point.
Make the choux paste
In a bowl, rub together the butter, flour, sugar, and salt until smooth.
Stir in the boiling milk and cook over heat, stirring constantly, until it thickens.
Set aside to cool.
Once cool, break in the eggs one at a time, stirring well after each addition.
Dissolve the baking soda in the cream and add it to the mixture.
Shape and bake
Drop spoonfuls onto buttered pans, shaping them into turban forms.
Brush the tops with a beaten egg using a feather.
Bake at 350°F (175°C) for 20 minutes.
Make the custard and fill
To make the custard, boil the water and add the butter.
Stir in the flour until smooth, then let it cool.
Beat in the eggs one at a time.
Once the cakes are done, cut one side open and fill with the custard.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Butter + milktop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together81,283 recipes
Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).
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Butter + creamtop 8% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together41,516 recipes
Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).
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Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together43,450 recipes
Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).
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Butter + flourtop 12% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together124,287 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Flour + milktop 14% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together78,219 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
Butter and flour barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Butter
- Adds richness and tenderness, and helps the dough hold together.
- Flour
- Provides the structure that holds the paste and custard together.
- Eggs
- Add structure and richness as they set during baking.
- Milk
- Provides moisture and helps the paste thicken when cooked.
- Baking soda
- Helps the cakes rise and brown in the oven.
The step that matters
Cooking the paste until it thickens. The flour must be fully cooked in the boiling milk so the paste thickens and holds its shape. Under-cooked paste can collapse or stay gummy, and it may not puff properly in the oven.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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