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Dessert

Apple Butter

A spread made by cooking apples and quinces with cider, sugar, cinnamon, and cloves until thickened.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Cinnamon and clove match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 14,189 recipes. Both carry ethyl cinnamate, which smells sweet, balsamic. The science ↓

Apple Butter

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare

  1. Pare and quarter the apples and quinces.

Cook the fruit

  1. Cook the quinces in water until soft, then mash through a colander.

  2. Boil and skim the cider until no froth gathers, then remove part of it.

  3. Leave enough cider in the kettle to cook the apples until soft.

  4. Add the mashed quinces to the soft apples.

  5. Gradually pour in the remaining cider as the mixture cooks.

Finish

  1. When the butter reaches the desired thickness, add sugar to taste.

  2. Continue cooking until the butter thickens again after adding sugar.

  3. Just before removing from heat, add cinnamon and cloves to taste.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Cinnamon + clovetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together14,189 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl cinnamate (sweet, balsamic).

  2. Apple + quincetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together506 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl isobutyrate (fruity, ethereal).

  3. Apple + cidertop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,238 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-one (mushroom, metallic).

  4. Quince + clovetop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together164 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl cinnamate (sweet, balsamic).

  5. Quince + cinnamontop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together199 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl cinnamate (sweet, balsamic).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Apples
Form the bulk of the butter and supply natural sweetness and body as they soften.
Quinces
Add pectin, which helps the butter thicken and set, along with a fragrant flavour.
Cider
Provides liquid that cooks down slowly, concentrating flavour and sweetness into the butter.
Sugar
Adds sweetness and balances the tartness of the fruit.
Cinnamon
Adds warm aromatic flavour to the finished butter.
Cloves
Adds warm, pungent aroma to the finished butter.

The step that matters

Cooking after adding sugar. Sugar-rich fruit mixtures scorch easily on the bottom of the kettle, so stir often. The butter must cook until it thickens again, since added sugar and liquid loosen it.

Swap the quince

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (apple, cider, sugar, cinnamon, clove):

  1. Pearfits about as well
  2. Quincethe original
  3. Vanillafits about as well
  4. Figfits less well

Fit is the average pairing score against apple, cider, sugar, cinnamon, clove. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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