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Mushroom Catchup

A fermented mushroom condiment made by boiling mushrooms with spices and reducing the liquid.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Allspice and clove match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 7,874 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

Mushroom Catchup

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the mushrooms

  1. Gather large, juicy flap-mushrooms that are too ripe for pickling or stewing.

  2. Remove all decayed matter and foreign substances.

  3. Place the mushrooms in an earthen jar, sprinkling a little salt over each layer. Cover the jar.

  4. Leave the jar near the fire for 24 hours.

Make the ketchup

  1. Strain the liquid into a porcelain-lined kettle or clean saucepan.

  2. Boil the liquid over high heat for 30 minutes.

  3. Add 2 teaspoons of black peppercorns, 1 teaspoon of allspice, 3 small slices of fresh ginger, a few blades of mace, 3 or 4 cloves, and a sprinkle of Cayenne pepper for every quart of liquid.

  4. Simmer until reduced by half.

  5. Remove the liquid from heat. Cover the liquid.

Bottle and store

  1. Once cool, fill small glass bottles completely.

  2. Carefully dip off the liquid without disturbing the sediment.

  3. Cork the bottles tightly with fresh cork.

  4. Store the bottles on their sides in a dry, cool place.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Allspice + clovetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together7,874 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Ginger + clovetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,038 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  3. Allspice + gingertop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together2,620 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  4. Clove + peppertop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together17,451 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).

  5. Allspice + peppertop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,395 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Large, juicy flap-mushrooms
Provide the main body and liquid that becomes the ketchup once salted and strained.
Coarse sea salt
Draws moisture out of the mushrooms and helps preserve the liquid.
Black peppercorns
Add sharp, pungent heat that gives the ketchup its savory bite.
Fresh ginger
Adds warm, aromatic spice that lifts the flavor of the mushroom liquid.
Cloves
Contribute strong, warm aroma that rounds out the spiced flavor.

The step that matters

Simmering until reduced by half. Reducing concentrates the flavor and thickens the liquid, and stopping too early leaves it weak and less stable for storage. Boiling vigorously also helps drive off water.

Swap the mace

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (mushroom, allspice, ginger, clove, pepper):

  1. Cinnamonfits better
  2. Thymefits better
  3. Nutmegfits better
  4. Macethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against mushroom, allspice, ginger, clove, pepper. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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