Why it works: Butter and flour are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 12% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes. Both carry isobutyraldehyde, which smells malty, green. The science ↓
Haunch of Venison
Ingredients
Directions
Prepare
Wash the haunch with lukewarm vinegar and water, then rub it well with butter or lard.
Cover the top and sides with greased foolscap paper and coat with a thick paste of flour and water.
Lay a large sheet of thin wrapping paper over this, followed by another sheet of stout foolscap, and tie down with greased pack-thread.
Prepare this the day before roasting.
Roast
About three hours before serving, place the haunch in a dripping pan with 2 cups of boiling water.
Insert another pan above to keep in the steam and ensure a good fire; leave it for an hour.
Check that the paper is not scorching; wet it with hot water and a ladleful of gravy, then cover and leave for another hour and a half.
Remove the papers and paste, then test the meat with a skewer; if it goes in easily, close the door and let it brown for half an hour.
Baste freely four times with wine and butter, then dredge with flour and rub with butter to create a froth.
Make the gravy and serve
Transfer to a hot dish, skim the gravy from the dripping pan, strain it, thicken with browned flour, and add 2 teaspoons of currant jelly, a glass of wine, pepper, and salt.
Boil briefly and serve in a gravy boat.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Butter + flourtop 12% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together124,287 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Vinegar + winetop 12% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together3,493 recipes
Shared aroma: sotolon (curry, maple).
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Venison + curranttop 13% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together443 recipes
Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-ol (mushroom, earthy).
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Vinegar + curranttop 13% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together693 recipes
Shared aroma: isoamyl acetate (banana, pear).
-
Butter + winetop 13% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together8,645 recipes
Shared aroma: 2-furfurylthiol (coffee, roasted).
Butter and flour barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Venison haunch
- Is the meat itself, whose lean texture is kept moist by the paper and paste wrapping.
- Butter
- Adds fat for richness and helps the surface brown and form a froth while basting.
- Flour
- Forms the protective paste around the haunch and, browned, thickens the gravy.
- Wine
- Adds acidity and flavour during basting and to the gravy, helping balance the rich meat.
- Currant jelly
- Adds sweetness and body to the gravy, balancing its savouriness.
The step that matters
Keeping the paper wrapping intact and checking for scorching. The flour-and-water paste and paper shield the lean meat from drying and burning. Wetting the paper with hot water and gravy keeps it from scorching while the steam-rich oven cooks the meat through slowly.
Swap the currant
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (venison, vinegar, butter, flour, wine, pepper):
- Lemonfits better
- Grapefits better
- Plumfits about as well
- Currantthe original
Fit is the average pairing score against venison, vinegar, butter, flour, wine, pepper. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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