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Sauce

Mushroom Catsup

A fermented mushroom sauce seasoned with allspice, ginger, cloves, mace, peppercorns, and salt.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
From a historical cookbook (Internet Archive) · 7 ingredients
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Why it works: Allspice and clove match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 7,874 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

Mushroom Catsup

Ingredients

Directions

Salt the mushrooms

  1. Wipe fresh mushrooms and layer them in an earthen dish, sprinkling each layer with coarse sea salt.

  2. Cover with a damp cloth and let stand for 36 hours in a warm place.

  3. Strain the mixture through a coarse sieve.

Make the ketchup

  1. In a kettle, combine 1 quart of the mushroom juice with 1 ounce of peppercorns and boil for 30 minutes.

  2. Add the spices and simmer gently for 15 minutes.

  3. Remove from heat, let cool, then strain and seal in glass bottles.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Allspice + clovetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together7,874 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Ginger + clovetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,038 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  3. Allspice + gingertop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together2,620 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  4. Clove + macetop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together8,400 recipes

    Shared aroma: methyleugenol (clove, spice).

  5. Allspice + macetop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,189 recipes

    Shared aroma: methyleugenol (clove, spice).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Fresh mushrooms
Provide the bulk and the savoury, umami-rich juice that forms the base of the ketchup.
Coarse sea salt
Draws moisture out of the mushrooms and preserves them during the long resting period.
Peppercorns
Add pungent heat and aroma to the mushroom juice as it boils.
Whole cloves
Contribute warm, aromatic spice to the finished ketchup.
Ginger root
Adds a sharp, fresh aromatic note that balances the rich mushroom flavour.

The step that matters

Salting and resting the mushrooms. Enough salt must be layered evenly so it draws out juice and inhibits spoilage during the 36-hour rest. Too little salt or a warm rest without cover invites harmful spoilage, so the layers and cloth matter.

Swap the mace

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (allspice, ginger, clove, mushroom):

  1. Cinnamonfits better
  2. Nutmegfits better
  3. Thymefits better
  4. Macethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against allspice, ginger, clove, mushroom. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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