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Cucumber Pickles

A method of pickling small cucumbers in a sweet and spiced brine with vinegar.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Mustard and horseradish match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 1,832 recipes. Both carry coumarin, which smells sweet, hay. The science ↓

Cucumber Pickles

Ingredients

Directions

Brine the cucumbers

  1. Make a brine strong enough to float an egg and add small cucumbers.

  2. Let them stand for 24 hours.

  3. Drain the brine and bring it to a boil.

  4. Skim off any foam.

  5. Pour the boiling brine over the cucumbers.

  6. Repeat this process for three mornings.

  7. After the third day, drain off the brine and pour boiling water over the cucumbers.

  8. Let them stand for another 24 hours.

Pack and pickle

  1. Dry the cucumbers and pack them tightly in jars, adding slips of horseradish throughout.

  2. For each gallon of pickles, add 1 pound of brown sugar, 1 ounce of English mustard, 1 ounce of allspice, 1 ounce of cinnamon, and alum.

  3. Pour good cider vinegar over the packed cucumbers.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Mustard + horseradishtop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,832 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  2. Allspice + cinnamontop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together5,536 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  3. Cucumber + horseradishtop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together640 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  4. Mustard + allspicetop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,928 recipes

    Shared aroma: methyleugenol (clove, spice).

  5. Cucumber + mustardtop 3% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together2,281 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Small cucumbers
Form the pickle itself; their firm flesh takes up the brine and spices.
Brown sugar
Adds sweetness that balances the sharp vinegar and brine.
Cider vinegar
Provides the acidity that preserves and sharpens the pickle flavour.
Alum
Helps the cucumbers stay firm and crisp during the long soaking.
Allspice
Contributes warm, aromatic spice flavour to the pickles.
Cinnamon
Contributes warm, sweet spice aroma to the pickles.

The step that matters

Repeated brining with boiling liquid. Pouring boiling brine over the cucumbers on each morning and then boiling water on the final day heats the pickles and draws out moisture, which helps them firm and clear. Each brine must be drained fully before the next, so the cucumbers are not left to soften in weak liquid.

Swap the cucumber

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, mustard, allspice, cinnamon, cider, vinegar, horseradish):

  1. Radishfits about as well
  2. Shallotfits about as well
  3. Beetrootfits about as well
  4. Cucumberthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, mustard, allspice, cinnamon, cider, vinegar, horseradish. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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