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Dessert

Cheese Straws

Cheese straws are baked strips of dough made with flour, cheese, butter, and spices.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Butter and milk are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 81,283 recipes. Both carry (z)-4-heptenal, which smells biscuit, cream. The science ↓

Cheese Straws

Oven, in the book's wordsA moderate oven

Ingredients

Directions

The book says “a moderate oven”. The 350°F (175°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.

Prepare the dough

  1. Sift the flour onto a clean surface and make a well in the center.

  2. Add the egg yolk (or cream), grated cheese, butter, salt, white pepper, cayenne, and nutmeg into the well.

  3. Mix the ingredients with your fingers until a smooth paste forms. If too dry, add a little cold milk or water.

  4. Roll out the paste to ⅛ inch thick.

Shape and bake

  1. Cut the rolled paste into strips about 6 inches long using a sharp knife or pastry wheel.

  2. Place the strips on a buttered baking pan, leaving space between them.

  3. Bake in a preheated oven at 350°F (175°C) for a few minutes, watching carefully to prevent browning.

  4. Once slightly hardened, let them cool on the pan before transferring to a serving dish.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Butter + milktop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together81,283 recipes

    Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).

  2. Pepper + nutmegtop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together13,015 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

  3. Flour + nutmegtop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together18,623 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  4. Cheese + buttertop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together7,962 recipes

    Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).

  5. Cheese + milktop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together4,426 recipes

    Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

All-purpose flour
Forms the structure of the paste that holds the straws together.
Egg yolk or cream
Adds richness and binds the dough into a smooth, pliable paste.
Dry rich cheese
Provides the main savory flavor and a crisp, golden texture after baking.
Butter
Adds fat for tenderness and a crisp, short texture.

The step that matters

Watching the bake. The straws are thin and brown quickly, and cheese browns and then turns bitter when overbaked. Checking them closely keeps them pale, crisp, and flavorful.

Swap the white pepper

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (flour, egg, cheese, butter, pepper, nutmeg, milk):

  1. Cinnamonfits better
  2. Parsleyfits better
  3. Cardamomfits better
  4. White pepperthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against flour, egg, cheese, butter, pepper, nutmeg, milk. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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