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Preserve

To Preserve Citrons

A method for preserving citrons by salting, alum treatment, simmering with vine leaves, and sweetening with a sugar syrup.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Sugar and lemon are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 18% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes. Both carry 2-nonenal, which smells fatty, green. The science ↓

To Preserve Citrons

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the citrons

  1. Pare the outer skin off the citrons and cut them into quarters, removing the middle.

  2. Soak the quarters in salt and water for 4-5 hours.

  3. Rinse the citrons in fresh water until the saltiness is gone.

  4. Boil a small lump of alum in water and scald the citrons in the weak alum-water.

Cook and candy

  1. Simmer the citrons with layers of green vine leaves for 2 hours.

  2. Make a syrup with ½ pint of water for each pound of loaf sugar; boil and skim until clear.

  3. Add the citrons to the syrup and boil slowly until soft enough to pierce with a straw.

Dry and finish

  1. Place the citrons in a large dish and set them in the sun to harden.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Sugar + lemontop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

Sugar and lemon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Fine citrons
Provide the fruit that is softened, candied and preserved.
Loaf sugar
Sweetens the peel and, as a thick syrup, preserves it through concentration.
Coarse sea salt
Draws out moisture and bitterness from the citron peel during soaking.
Alum
Firms the peel so it holds its shape during long simmering.

The step that matters

Adding the citrons to the syrup and boiling slowly. Boiling too hard can break down or toughen the peel, while slow simmering lets sugar penetrate gradually. Test softness by piercing with a straw before removing them.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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