Why it works: Tarragon and chervil match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 824 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓
Cambridge Sauce
Ingredients
Directions
Make the sauce
Combine egg yolks, anchovies, capers, tarragon, chervil, chives, and burnet in a mortar.
Pound the mixture well.
Add English mustard, French mustard, pepper, and salt.
Moisten with salad oil and tarragon vinegar until thick.
Transfer the mixture to a tammy over a dish and rub through to remove any lumps.
Chill and serve
Place the sauce in a small basin and keep it on ice until ready to serve.
Before serving, stir in chopped parsley.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Tarragon + cherviltop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together824 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
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Chervil + chivetop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together370 recipes
Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).
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Capers + cherviltop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together135 recipes
Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).
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Capers + mustardtop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together624 recipes
Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).
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Capers + chivetop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together245 recipes
Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Hard-boiled egg yolks
- Form the thick, smooth body of the sauce as they are pounded and bound with oil.
- Salad oil
- Adds richness and moisture, emulsifying with the yolks to thicken the sauce.
- Anchovy fillets
- Add a salty, savoury depth that gives the sauce its character.
- French capers
- Contribute sharp, briny acidity that cuts through the rich yolks.
- English mustard
- Adds sharp heat and helps stabilise the emulsion.
The step that matters
Moisten with salad oil and tarragon vinegar until thick. Oil must be added slowly to the pounded yolks so they emulsify. Adding it too fast can split the sauce into greasy pools instead of a thick, smooth texture.
Swap the mustard
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (egg, anchovy, capers, tarragon, chervil, chive, pepper):
- Shallotfits better
- Lettucefits better
- Mustardthe original
- Beetrootfits about as well
Fit is the average pairing score against egg, anchovy, capers, tarragon, chervil, chive, pepper. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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