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Dessert

Ices and Ice Cream

A frozen dessert made from a sugar and pineapple syrup with egg yolks, cream, candied fruit, and orange juice.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Pineapple and vanilla match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 2% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 911 recipes. Both carry ethyl isobutyrate, which smells fruity, ethereal. The science ↓

Ices and Ice Cream

Ingredients

Directions

Make the custard

  1. Make a syrup with 1 pint sugar, 1 pint water, and the juice from 1 can pineapple.

  2. Cook for 20 minutes.

  3. Add 11 beaten egg yolks.

  4. Place on the back of the range.

  5. Stir constantly until thickened.

  6. Remove from heat.

Chill and beat

  1. Place the inner kettle in a pan of cold water.

  2. Beat for 15 minutes.

  3. Let cool.

Flavour and freeze

  1. Mix nut paste with ½ pint cream.

  2. Strain through a sieve.

  3. Add to the mixture.

  4. Freeze.

  5. Chop ¾ pound mixed French candied fruit.

  6. Add it along with the canned pineapple, 1 tablespoon vanilla, 6 tablespoons orange juice, and ½ pint whipped cream when the mixture is half frozen.

  7. Use a melon mold.

  8. Garnish with roasted chestnuts or blanched almonds dipped in candy syrup.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Pineapple + vanillatop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together911 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl isobutyrate (fruity, ethereal).

  2. Pineapple + orangetop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,664 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl isobutyrate (fruity, ethereal).

  3. Vanilla + orangetop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together2,371 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  4. Sugar + vanillatop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together35,032 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  5. Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together43,450 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).

Sugar and vanilla barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 35,032 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Egg yolks
Thicken the custard as they set on gentle heat, giving body and richness.
Sugar
Adds sweetness and keeps the frozen mixture softer and less icy.
Cream
Adds fat, which gives the ice cream a smooth, rich texture.
Whipped cream
Adds trapped air, making the frozen dessert lighter and more tender.

The step that matters

Stir constantly until thickened. Egg yolks scramble if they get too hot or are left unstirred. Gentle, constant heat lets the custard thicken smoothly, and removing it from heat promptly prevents curdling.

Swap the orange

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, pineapple, egg, cream, vanilla):

  1. Strawberryfits better
  2. Bananafits better
  3. Figfits better
  4. Orangethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, pineapple, egg, cream, vanilla. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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