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Cardoons with Marrow

A dish of boiled cardoon stems served with reduced Espagnole sauce, fat pork, and marrow scallops.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Lemon and pepper match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 3% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 27,047 recipes. Both carry trans-2-nonenal, which smells cardboard, fatty. The science ↓

Cardoons with Marrow

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare

  1. Cut cardoon stems into 4‑inch lengths and soak in cold, acidulated water.

  2. Boil water with the juice of 5 lemons, then add cardoons and parboil until the outer surface can be easily peeled off.

  3. Remove from heat, peel, and trim cardoons, then place in fresh water to cool.

  4. Drain cardoons on a napkin and prepare a deep flat saucepan lined with slices of fat pork.

Braise

  1. Season cardoons with salt, pepper, and sugar, then moisten with broth to cover.

  2. Add juice of 2 lemons and cover cardoons with thin slices of fat pork.

  3. Cover and boil, then reduce heat to cook slowly until done.

Serve

  1. Drain cardoons on a napkin, dish them up, and pour reduced Espagnole sauce over them.

  2. Garnish with small patties or buttered toast filled with scallops of marrow and serve.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Lemon + peppertop 3% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together27,047 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-nonenal (cardboard, fatty).

  2. Cardoon + lemontop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together33 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  3. Sauce + scalloptop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together130 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethanol (alcoholic, ethereal).

  4. Sugar + saucetop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together5,147 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethanol (alcoholic, ethereal).

  5. Cardoon + peppertop 14% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together31 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Cardoon stems
Form the main body of the dish, becoming tender and silky after slow cooking.
Lemons
Acidity that brightens flavour and keeps the cardoons pale during parboiling.
Fat pork
Fat that lines the pan and covers the cardoons, adding richness and moisture during the slow cook.
Broth
Liquid that gently moistens and flavours the cardoons as they braise.
Scallops of marrow
Rich, buttery filling that adds fat and savoury depth to the garnish.

The step that matters

Parboiling in acidulated water. Parboiling long enough to loosen the outer fibrous skin lets it peel cleanly. Too short leaves stringy strands, too long makes the stems soft and waterlogged. Acid helps prevent browning.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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