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Soyer's Recipe for Puff Paste

A dough made from flour, egg yolk, lemon juice, salt, cold water, and butter, folded and rolled to create layers.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Flour and butter are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 12% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes. Both carry isobutyraldehyde, which smells malty, green. The science ↓

Soyer's Recipe for Puff Paste

Ingredients

Directions

Make the dough

  1. On a clean surface, make a mound with the flour and create a well in the center.

  2. Add the egg yolk, lemon juice, and salt into the well.

  3. Gradually mix in cold water to form a soft, flexible paste, handling it as little as possible.

Laminate the dough

  1. Remove butter from the refrigerator, wrap it in a cloth, and roll out the paste.

  2. Place the butter in the center of the paste and fold the edges over to cover it.

  3. Roll out the paste to a thickness of ¼ inch.

  4. Fold the paste into thirds, rolling it out again after each fold to form a square.

  5. Flour a baking sheet and place the paste on it, then chill for 30 minutes.

  6. Roll out the paste twice more, turning it as before, and chill for another 15 minutes.

  7. Roll out the paste two more times, making a total of seven rolls, and it is ready to use.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Flour + buttertop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together124,287 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  2. Flour + eggtop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together106,462 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  3. Lemon + buttertop 16% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together41,227 recipes

    Shared aroma: 3-hexenal (apple, fruity).

  4. Flour + lemontop 17% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together30,404 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  5. Egg + buttertop 17% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together118,967 recipes

    Shared aroma: decanal (soap, orange peel).

Flour and butter barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

All-purpose flour
Forms the gluten network that gives the paste its structure and shape.
Fresh butter
Forms separate layers that puff into flaky sheets when the water in it turns to steam.
Cold water
Hydrates the flour into a dough that can be rolled while keeping the butter layers distinct.
Egg yolk
Adds richness and tenderness to the paste.

The step that matters

Keep the butter cold and the paste handled lightly. If the butter softens and blends into the dough, the layers are lost and the pastry will not puff. Overworking the paste develops gluten, making it tough and hard to roll. Chilling between folds keeps the butter firm and the layers distinct.

Swap the lemon

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (flour, egg, butter):

  1. Raisinfits better
  2. Vanillafits better
  3. Lemonthe original
  4. Coconutfits about as well

Fit is the average pairing score against flour, egg, butter. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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