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Dessert

French Flummery

A sweet dessert made by boiling isinglass in cream, sweetened with sugar and orange juice, then set in a mold.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Orange and pear work together. They rank in the top 9% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 323 recipes. Both carry ethyl isobutyrate, which smells fruity, ethereal. The science ↓

French Flummery

Ingredients

Directions

Make the flummery

  1. Slowly boil 2 ounces of isinglass in 1 quart of cream for 15 minutes, stirring constantly.

  2. Sweeten the mixture with loaf sugar and the strained juice of 1 orange.

  3. Pour the mixture through a fine sieve into a mold.

Serve

  1. Serve with baked pears arranged around it.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Orange + peartop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together323 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl isobutyrate (fruity, ethereal).

  2. Cream + sugartop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together43,450 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).

  3. Sugar + peartop 17% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together2,079 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-penten-3-one (fish, pungent).

  4. Sugar + orangetop 20% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together19,212 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  5. Cream + peartop 27% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together404 recipes

    Shared aroma: acetic acid (sour, vinegar).

Sugar and orange barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 19,212 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Isinglass
Gelatin-like collagen that dissolves in the hot cream and sets it into a firm, wobbly jelly as it cools.
Cream
Supplies the fat and body that give the flummery a rich, smooth, creamy texture.
Loaf sugar
Adds sweetness to balance the richness of the cream and the tang of the orange.
Orange juice
Adds bright acidity and citrus aroma that cut through the richness of the cream.

The step that matters

Boil the isinglass in the cream with constant stirring. Isinglass must fully dissolve in the hot cream to set properly. Without constant stirring, it can stick to the base of the pan and scorch, and undissolved pieces leave lumps and weak spots in the finished jelly.

Swap the orange

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (cream, sugar, pear):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Strawberryfits better
  3. Applefits better
  4. Orangethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against cream, sugar, pear. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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