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To Cure Hams

A method for curing pork hams using saltpetre, salt, sugar, and smoking.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Pork and ham are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 13% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 2,638 recipes. Both carry 2-acetyl-1-pyrroline, which smells popcorn, roasted. The science ↓

To Cure Hams

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the ham

  1. Sprinkle a handful of coarse sea salt on the pork to draw out the blood; do not use this brine.

  2. Wipe the meat with a dry cloth.

Cure

  1. Mix saltpetre, common salt, and coarse brown sugar together.

  2. Rub the mixture well into the ham.

  3. Let the ham sit in this pickle for one month, turning and basting it every day.

Smoke and dry

  1. Hang the ham in a wood smoke in a dry place, away from heat.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Pork + hamtop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together2,638 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-acetyl-1-pyrroline (popcorn, roasted).

  2. Sugar + hamtop 33% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together1,084 recipes

    Shared aroma: phenylacetaldehyde (hawthorne, honey).

  3. Sugar + porktop 37% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together4,579 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Saltpetre
Preserves the meat and gives cured ham its characteristic pink colour.
Common salt
Draws moisture out of the meat and helps preserve it during curing.
Coarse brown sugar
Balances the saltiness and adds a mild sweetness to the cured ham.

The step that matters

Turning and basting the ham daily. The cure must reach every part of the meat evenly. Daily turning and basting redistributes the salt and sugar mixture and its liquid, so thick or lower sections do not cure unevenly or spoil.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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