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Mushroom Ketchup

A fermented mushroom condiment made with salt, spices, and brandy.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Allspice and ginger match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 2,620 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

Mushroom Ketchup

Ingredients

Directions

Salt and rest

  1. Choose fresh, full-grown mushroom caps, avoiding those picked in heavy rain.

  2. Layer mushrooms in a deep pan, sprinkling salt between layers.

  3. Let them sit for a few hours.

  4. Break them up by hand.

  5. Place in a cool area for 3 days.

  6. Stir and mash occasionally to extract juice.

Spice and cook

  1. Measure the liquor without straining.

  2. Add spices according to the proportions.

  3. Transfer to a stone jar.

  4. Cover tightly.

  5. Place in a saucepan of boiling water.

  6. Boil for 3 hours.

  7. Pour into a clean stewpan.

  8. Simmer gently for 30 minutes.

Settle and bottle

  1. Let it cool overnight.

  2. Pour off into another jug without disturbing the sediment.

  3. Strain into dry, clean bottles without squeezing the mushrooms.

  4. Add a few drops of brandy to each pint of ketchup.

  5. Cork well and seal to exclude air.

  6. Strain again if necessary for clarity.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Allspice + gingertop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together2,620 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Pepper + allspicetop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,395 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  3. Allspice + macetop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,189 recipes

    Shared aroma: methyleugenol (clove, spice).

  4. Pepper + gingertop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,800 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  5. Mushroom + peppertop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together13,580 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Fresh mushrooms
Provide the bulk of the liquid and the savoury flavour of the ketchup.
Coarse sea salt
Draws juice out of the mushrooms and helps preserve the finished ketchup.
Cayenne pepper
Adds heat that gives the ketchup its sharp, spicy bite.
Allspice
Contributes warm, aromatic flavour that rounds out the spice blend.
Ginger
Adds aromatic warmth and a light, spicy note.
Mace
Adds a delicate, warm aroma to the spice blend.

The step that matters

Boiling the sealed jar. Boiling the covered jar gently extracts flavour evenly while the lid keeps aroma in. Boiling too hard or uncovering it can drive off volatile spice aromas and concentrate the liquid unevenly.

Swap the mace

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (mushroom, pepper, allspice, ginger, brandy):

  1. Clovefits better
  2. Cinnamonfits better
  3. Thymefits better
  4. Macethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against mushroom, pepper, allspice, ginger, brandy. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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