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Salad

Slaw or Salad Dressing

A dressing made with mustard, salt, flour, sugar, eggs, vinegar, cream or milk, butter, and celery seed.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Mustard and celery are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 2% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 4,169 recipes. Both carry guaiacol, which smells smoky, sweet. The science ↓

Slaw or Salad Dressing

Ingredients

Directions

  1. Mix the dry ingredients (mustard, salt, flour, and sugar) thoroughly.

  2. Add the eggs and beat well.

  3. Slowly add the vinegar and then the cream or milk.

  4. Place the mixture in a double boiler and stir continuously while cooking.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Mustard + celerytop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together4,169 recipes

    Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).

  2. Mustard + vinegartop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together14,067 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  3. Cream + buttertop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together41,516 recipes

    Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).

  4. Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together43,450 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).

  5. Flour + buttertop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together124,287 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

Flour and butter barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Eggs
Thicken the dressing as they set during cooking, giving it body.
Flour
Stabilises the mixture and helps thicken it so it does not turn watery.
Sugar
Adds sweetness to balance the sharpness of the vinegar.
Vinegar
Adds acidity that gives the dressing its tangy flavour.
Cream or milk
Adds richness and moisture, softening the dressing's sharpness.

The step that matters

Stir continuously while cooking in the double boiler. Egg proteins set when heated, so without constant stirring the eggs can scramble or curdle on the bottom before the dressing thickens evenly. Gentle, steady heat from the double boiler and constant stirring keep it smooth.

Swap the celery

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (mustard, flour, sugar, egg, vinegar, cream, butter):

  1. Capersfits better
  2. Tarragonfits better
  3. Nutmegfits better
  4. Celerythe original

Fit is the average pairing score against mustard, flour, sugar, egg, vinegar, cream, butter. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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