Why it works: Milk and butter are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 81,283 recipes. Both carry (z)-4-heptenal, which smells biscuit, cream. The science ↓
Sally Lunn
Ingredients
Directions
The book says “a moderate oven”. The 350°F (175°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.
Make the batter
Beat the sugar and eggs until very light.
Add the sweet milk, butter, lard, and yeast, then mix well.
Gradually add flour to create a very stiff batter.
Rise and bake
Set the batter aside to rise until light.
Once risen, beat down the batter and let it rise again.
Pour the batter into well-buttered pans or baking dishes.
Let it rise for an hour or until light.
Bake in a moderate oven at 350°F (175°C) until done.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Milk + buttertop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together81,283 recipes
Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).
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Butter + flourtop 12% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together124,287 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Milk + flourtop 14% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together78,219 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Sugar + flourtop 15% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together92,116 recipes
Shared aroma: phenylacetaldehyde (hawthorne, honey).
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Egg + flourtop 15% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together106,462 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
Butter and flour barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Eggs
- Add structure and richness, and help the batter hold its light texture while rising.
- Yeast
- Produces gas during fermentation, which makes the batter rise and gives the loaf its airy crumb.
- Flour
- Forms the gluten network that traps gas and gives the stiff batter its body.
- Sugar
- Feeds the yeast and adds sweetness and gentle browning in the crust.
- Lard
- Adds fat that tenderizes the crumb and softens its texture.
The step that matters
Beating the batter down before the second rise. Knocking back the batter releases built-up gas and redistributes the yeast, so the second rise is even and the crumb stays fine rather than coarse or uneven.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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