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Drink

Helder-wine

A fermented elderberry beverage made with sugar, spices, and yeast.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Clove and allspice match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 7,874 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

Helder-wine

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the must

  1. Boil elderberries in water (1 gallon elderberries to 2 gallons water).

  2. Add 3 pounds of sugar for every gallon of liquor.

  3. When nearly cold, add a little yeast to start fermentation.

Ferment and flavour

  1. The next day, transfer the liquor, leaving the bung out until hissing noise stops.

  2. Put spices in a muslin bag, boil in a little liquor, and sink the bag in the cask with a pebble.

  3. Use 4–5 ounces of spices for nine gallons of wine.

  4. Optionally, add a few sloes or damsons to improve the wine.

Alternative method

  1. For another method, bruise and strain ripe elderberries, then let the juice settle for 12 hours.

  2. Mix 1.5 pints of water for every pint of juice and add 3 pounds of sugar per gallon.

  3. Clarify with the whites of 4–5 eggs while boiling for one hour.

  4. After cooling, add strong ale yeast and fill the vessel as it sinks during fermentation.

Bottle

  1. After one month, the wine will be ready to bottle; it will be drinkable in 12 months.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Clove + allspicetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together7,874 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Ginger + clovetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,038 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  3. Ginger + allspicetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together2,620 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  4. Sugar + gingertop 17% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together14,054 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-penten-3-one (fish, pungent).

  5. Sugar + allspicetop 24% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together6,938 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-penten-3-one (fish, pungent).

Sugar and ginger barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 14,054 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Elderberries
Provide the main fruit flavour, colour and body of the wine.
Sugar
Feeds the yeast to produce alcohol and adds sweetness.
Strong ale yeast
Ferments the sugars into alcohol and carbon dioxide.
Eggs (in the method)
Whites collect particles during boiling, clarifying the wine.
Spices
Add aromatic warmth to the finished wine.

The step that matters

Adding yeast when nearly cold. Yeast is killed by hot liquid, so it must be added only once the must has cooled enough to be safe, yet while still warm enough to start fermenting promptly.

Swap the ginger

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, clove, allspice):

  1. Cinnamonfits better
  2. Nutmegfits better
  3. Gingerthe original
  4. Cardamomfits about as well

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, clove, allspice. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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