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New York Counts Oyster Sauce

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Tarragon and horseradish share more aroma than cooks usually use. They rank in the top 4% of all ingredient pairs, and 73 recipes mention both. Both carry coumarin, which smells sweet, hay. The science ↓

New York Counts Oyster Sauce

Ingredients

Directions

  1. Mix together the tomato catsup, hot water, tarragon vinegar, and grated horseradish.

  2. Melt the butter in a pan until slightly browned.

  3. Add the flour to the melted butter and stir for a moment.

  4. Combine the mixed ingredients with the butter and flour, and cook until the sauce thickens smoothly.

  5. Serve hot or cold as preferred. Add Tabasco or cayenne for extra heat if desired.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much aroma chemistry they share, and how many recipes mention both.

  1. Tarragon + horseradishtop 4% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapstrong
    Mentioned together73 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  2. Tomato + tarragontop 6% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapmoderate
    Mentioned together391 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).

  3. Tarragon + vinegartop 7% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapmoderate
    Mentioned together2,547 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  4. Horseradish + flourtop 10% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapstrong
    Mentioned together743 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  5. Butter + flourtop 12% of all pairs
    Aroma overlaplow
    Mentioned together124,287 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

Butter and flour share little aroma chemistry, yet 124,287 recipes mention both: they likely work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

Flavor stand-ins for the tomato

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (tarragon, vinegar, horseradish, butter, flour, sauce):

  1. Shallotbetter flavor fit
  2. Mustardbetter flavor fit
  3. Beetrootbetter flavor fit
  4. Tomatothe original

Fit is the average pairing score against tarragon, vinegar, horseradish, butter, flour, sauce. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes. This compares flavor only: it does not check the job the ingredient does in the dish (bulk, moisture, acidity, structure).

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