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Boiled Salad Dressing

A boiled dressing made with salt, mustard, flour, sugar, cayenne, egg yolks, butter, milk, and vinegar.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Boiled Salad Dressing

Why it works: Butter and milk are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 81,283 recipes. Both carry (z)-4-heptenal, which smells biscuit, cream. The science ↓

Boiled Salad Dressing

Ingredients

Directions

  1. In a bowl, mix the salt, mustard, flour, sugar, and cayenne with the slightly beaten egg yolks.

  2. Add the melted butter and milk, then stir in the hot vinegar.

  3. Cook the mixture in a double boiler, stirring constantly until it thickens.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Photo for illustrative purposes only · Contact us to use it

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Butter + milktop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together81,283 recipes

    Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).

  2. Mustard + vinegartop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together14,067 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  3. Flour + buttertop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together124,287 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  4. Mustard + flourtop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together5,066 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  5. Flour + milktop 14% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together78,219 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

Flour and butter barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Egg yolks
Thicken the dressing and add richness as they set during cooking.
Flour
Thickens the liquid into a smooth, stable dressing body.
Butter
Adds fat for a rich, smooth mouthfeel.
Vinegar
Adds acidity for a sharp, tangy flavor.
Milk
Adds liquid and softness to the dressing.

The step that matters

Cook in a double boiler while stirring constantly. Egg yolks can curdle or scramble if overheated. Gentle, constant stirring over indirect heat lets the starch and yolks thicken evenly into a smooth dressing.

Swap the mustard

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (flour, sugar, egg, butter, milk, vinegar):

  1. Shallotfits about as well
  2. Capsicumfits about as well
  3. Chivefits about as well
  4. Mustardthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against flour, sugar, egg, butter, milk, vinegar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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