Why it works: Butter and milk are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 81,283 recipes. Both carry (z)-4-heptenal, which smells biscuit, cream. The science ↓
Cue AM of Tomato, or Mock Bisque
Ingredients
Directions
Prepare the tomato base
Stew the tomatoes, water, cloves, peppercorns, sugar, and baking soda together until the tomatoes are tender.
Strain the mixture, removing the skin and seeds.
Make the sauce
In a separate pan, cook the butter and flour together.
Add the cold milk, stirring constantly until it forms a smooth sauce.
Add 1 pint of the stewed and strained tomatoes.
Season with salt and cayenne pepper.
Finish and serve
Heat until scalding hot and serve immediately.
If allowed to stand, the soup will curdle.
If it curdles, beat with a Dover egg-beater until smooth.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Butter + milktop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together81,283 recipes
Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).
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Tomato + clovetop 12% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together3,474 recipes
Shared aroma: ethyl caproate (fruity, apple peel).
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Butter + flourtop 12% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together124,287 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Milk + flourtop 14% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together78,219 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Sugar + flourtop 15% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together92,116 recipes
Shared aroma: phenylacetaldehyde (hawthorne, honey).
Butter and flour barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Tomatoes
- Provide the main body, acidity and flavor of the soup.
- Butter
- Adds fat and richness to the sauce base.
- Flour
- Thickens the butter and milk into a smooth sauce.
- Milk
- Gives the soup its creamy body and mellow flavor.
- Baking soda
- Neutralizes some tomato acidity, softening the flavor and helping prevent curdling.
The step that matters
Adding the cold milk to the butter and flour. Stirring constantly keeps the flour from forming lumps, so the sauce stays smooth. Acidic tomatoes added to milk can cause it to curdle, so the soup must be served hot and not left to stand.
Swap the tomato
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (clove, sugar, butter, milk, flour):
- Arrowrootfits better
- Sweet potatofits better
- Leekfits better
- Tomatothe original
Fit is the average pairing score against clove, sugar, butter, milk, flour. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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