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Mushroom Catsup

A fermented mushroom condiment made with salt, spices, and boiled for several hours.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Allspice and ginger match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 2,620 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

Mushroom Catsup

Ingredients

Directions

Salt and rest

  1. Layer mushrooms and salt in an earthen pan and let sit overnight.

  2. Mash the mixture well and let it sit for three days, stirring daily.

  3. Strain the mixture through a sieve or colander.

Spice and cook

  1. To each quart of juice, add allspice, ginger, mace, and cayenne pepper.

  2. Transfer to a stone jar, cover tightly, and boil in a kettle of boiling water for 5–6 hours.

  3. Remove from heat, pour into a porcelain kettle, and boil slowly for an additional hour.

Settle and bottle

  1. Let it cool overnight until settled and clear.

  2. Carefully pour off the clear liquid from the sediments and bottle in small bottles, sealing them airtight.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Allspice + gingertop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together2,620 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Allspice + peppertop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,395 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  3. Allspice + macetop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,189 recipes

    Shared aroma: methyleugenol (clove, spice).

  4. Ginger + peppertop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,800 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  5. Mushroom + peppertop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together13,580 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Mushrooms
Form the main body and liquid base of the ketchup once salted and mashed.
Coarse sea salt
Draws moisture out of the mushrooms and helps preserve the mixture during resting.
Allspice
Adds warm, clove-like aroma and depth to the liquid.
Ginger
Contributes a bright, pungent aroma that balances the earthy mushrooms.
Mace
Adds a delicate, nutmeg-like aroma to the sauce.
Cayenne pepper
Provides heat that gives the finished sauce its sharp bite.

The step that matters

Pouring off the clear liquid. Sediment left at the bottom of the settled liquid would make the ketchup cloudy and gritty. Pouring slowly and leaving the sediment behind keeps the finished sauce clear and smooth.

Swap the mace

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (mushroom, allspice, ginger, pepper):

  1. Clovefits better
  2. Thymefits better
  3. Turmericfits better
  4. Macethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against mushroom, allspice, ginger, pepper. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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