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Veal Stock

A savory stock made from veal lungs, heart, white meat, herbs, Madeira wine, and spices, finished with egg whites and butter.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
From a historical cookbook (Internet Archive) · 11 ingredients
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Why it works: Clove and nutmeg match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 8,686 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

Veal Stock

Ingredients

Directions

Make the clarified base

  1. Combine onion, herbs, mace, cloves, and nutmeg in a pot. Stew gently until tender.

  2. Add Madeira wine and simmer for 15 minutes.

  3. Beat egg whites with lemon juice and add to the pot. Boil and strain through a flannel bag.

Cook the meats

  1. Melt butter in a stew pan and gently cook the white meat until nearly tender.

  2. Cover lungs and heart with veal stock, additional onion, herbs, and spices. Stew until tender.

  3. Remove lungs, strain the liquid, thicken it, and add Madeira, salt, and Cayenne pepper.

  4. Return lungs and white meat to the pot and stew gently for 15 minutes.

Prepare and bake the shell

  1. Make forcemeat balls from turtle white meat or veal. If using turtle eggs, scald them; otherwise, use 12 large egg yolks to make egg balls.

  2. Prepare the callipash shell with paste, season inside with Cayenne, salt, and Madeira. Bake for 30 minutes.

  3. Add lungs, white meat, forcemeat, and eggs to the shell and bake for another 30 minutes.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Clove + nutmegtop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together8,686 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Mace + nutmegtop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together6,557 recipes

    Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).

  3. Nutmeg + lemontop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together11,318 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).

  4. Mace + clovetop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together8,400 recipes

    Shared aroma: methyleugenol (clove, spice).

  5. Clove + lemontop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together8,150 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Whites of 6 eggs
Egg whites coagulate when boiled, collecting impurities so the stock clears when strained.
Butter
Fat that gently cooks the white meat in its own juices, adding richness and softening it.
Madeira wine
Adds aromatic depth and sweetness, flavouring the stock and the sauce.
Juice of 2 lemons
Acidity that helps the egg whites bind impurities and brightens the finished liquid.
Egg yolks
Bind the forcemeat balls and set during baking, giving a tender, cohesive texture.

The step that matters

Boiling the egg white clarification. Egg whites must be beaten with lemon juice and then brought to a boil, not stirred into a rolling pot too early. The proteins set and trap cloudy particles, which the flannel strain then removes, so the stock stays clear.

Swap the onion

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (mace, clove, nutmeg, madeira wine, egg, lemon, butter):

  1. Shallotfits better
  2. Leekfits better
  3. Carrotfits better
  4. Onionthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against mace, clove, nutmeg, madeira wine, egg, lemon, butter. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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