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Glaze for Hams, Larding, Roasted Poultry, &C

A savory glaze made from veal broth, ham, beef, fowls, vegetables, and seasonings, clarified with egg whites.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
From a historical cookbook (Internet Archive) · 15 ingredients
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Why it works: Turnip and leek match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 1,046 recipes. Both carry coumarin, which smells sweet, hay. The science ↓

Glaze for Hams, Larding, Roasted Poultry, &C

Ingredients

Directions

Make the broth

  1. Sweat down veal, ham, beef, fowls, celery, turnips, carrots, onions, and leeks in 3 quarts of water until three-quarters done.

  2. Add enough water to cover the meat and boil until the goodness is extracted.

  3. Skim and strain the liquid into a large pan.

  4. The next day, remove the fat and warm the broth.

Clarify and reduce

  1. Clear the broth with egg whites and a few yolks.

  2. Add a little color and strain through a tamis cloth.

  3. Boil quickly until reduced to a glaze, being careful not to burn.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Turnip + leektop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,046 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  2. Celery + carrottop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together10,173 recipes

    Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).

  3. Turnip + carrottop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together8,002 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  4. Celery + turniptop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together4,418 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  5. Carrot + leektop 3% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,310 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Egg whites and yolks
Coagulate as they heat, trapping cloudy particles so the broth becomes clear.
Veal
Contributes gelatin and savory body that thickens the broth into a glaze.
Fowls
Add gelatin and poultry flavor to the broth as they simmer.
Lean ham
Adds savory, salty depth to the broth.

The step that matters

Boil quickly until reduced to a glaze. Reducing concentrates the gelatin and flavor, but the sugars and proteins in the broth scorch easily once thick, so the heat must be watched closely to avoid a burnt, bitter taste.

Swap the onion

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (veal, ham, beef, celery, turnip, carrot, leek):

  1. Parsnipfits better
  2. Lettucefits about as well
  3. Chivefits about as well
  4. Onionthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against veal, ham, beef, celery, turnip, carrot, leek. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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