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Keck of Veal Larded

A veal neck roasted with lard and veal caul, served with sorrel sauce, celery heads, or asparagus tops.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
From a historical cookbook (Internet Archive) · 6 ingredients
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Why it works: Sorrel and asparagus match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 122 recipes. Both carry coumarin, which smells sweet, hay. The science ↓

Keck of Veal Larded

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare

  1. Remove the underbone from the neck of veal, leaving part of the long bones.

  2. Trim the veal neatly and lard it.

Roast

  1. Roast the veal gently with veal caul over it.

  2. Ten minutes before it is done, remove the caul.

Glaze and serve

  1. Glaze the veal when ready to serve and place it under sorrel sauce, celery heads, or asparagus tops.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Sorrel + asparagustop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together122 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  2. Sorrel + celerytop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together212 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  3. Celery + asparagustop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together378 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-methoxy-4-vinylphenol (clove, smoky).

  4. Veal + celerytop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together2,336 recipes

    Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).

  5. Sorrel + saucetop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together158 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethanol (alcoholic, ethereal).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Veal caul
Its fat bastes the meat as it roasts, adding moisture and richness.
Coarse sea salt
Seasons the surface of the veal, adding flavour to the outer layer.

The step that matters

Removing the caul ten minutes before the end. Removing the caul at the right time lets the surface brown and crisp before the veal is done, so the glaze adheres well. Removing it too early leaves the meat pale and dry, while leaving it on too long stops the surface from browning.

Swap the celery

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (veal, sorrel, sauce, asparagus):

  1. Capersfits better
  2. Tarragonfits better
  3. Parsleyfits about as well
  4. Celerythe original

Fit is the average pairing score against veal, sorrel, sauce, asparagus. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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