Why it works: Spinach and gooseberry share more aroma than cooks usually use. They rank in the top 4% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 18 recipes. Both carry coumarin, which smells sweet, hay. The science ↓
Green Sauce for Ducklings, or Green Geese
Ingredients
Directions
Prepare the juice
Wash and bruise the spinach or sorrel in a mortar.
Strain the juice through a fine cloth.
Make the sauce
In a saucepan, combine the juice, sugar, egg yolk, and vinegar.
If using spinach juice, add the butter and whisk over low heat until it begins to boil.
For spinach juice, you can add gooseberry pulp instead of vinegar.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Spinach + gooseberrytop 4% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together18 recipes
Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).
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Sugar + vinegartop 15% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together20,806 recipes
Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).
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Vinegar + gooseberrytop 17% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together27 recipes
Shared aroma: acetic acid (sour, vinegar).
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Egg + buttertop 17% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together118,967 recipes
Shared aroma: decanal (soap, orange peel).
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Sugar + buttertop 17% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together98,233 recipes
Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Egg yolk
- Thickens the sauce and gives it a smooth, rich body as it heats.
- Butter
- Adds fat for a glossy, smooth texture and a rounder mouthfeel.
- Vinegar
- Adds acidity that brightens the green flavour and balances the sugar.
- Loaf sugar
- Adds sweetness to balance the acidity of the vinegar.
The step that matters
Whisking the yolk over low heat. Egg yolk thickens through gentle heat, but if it gets too hot it scrambles and curdles. Low heat and constant whisking keep the sauce smooth as it nears a boil.
Swap the gooseberry
The recipe marks gooseberry as optional. How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (spinach, sugar, egg, vinegar, butter):
- Lemonfits better
- Vanillafits about as well
- Cherryfits about as well
- Gooseberrythe original
Fit is the average pairing score against spinach, sugar, egg, vinegar, butter. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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