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Ris De Veau En Fricassee

A veal fricassee made with sweetbreads, onions, mace, parsley, garlic, shallots, artichoke bottoms or morels, finished with egg yolk cream.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Onion and garlic match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 29,058 recipes. Both carry furaneol, which smells caramel, strawberry. The science ↓

Ris De Veau En Fricassee

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the sweetbreads

  1. Scald the sweetbreads until firm, then divide them in half.

  2. Cut one half into pieces the length of your finger.

  3. Fry the pieces in butter with a little flour.

  4. Pour over stock mixed with water.

Stew

  1. Add the onion, mace, parsley, garlic, and shallots.

  2. Stew for half an hour.

  3. Add artichoke bottoms or morels, then add the whole sweetbreads.

  4. Stew until done, about another half hour.

Finish and serve

  1. Just before serving, mix the egg yolks with some cream and chopped parsley.

  2. Stir the mixture in until it thickens, but do not let the sauce boil after adding the eggs.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Onion + garlictop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together29,058 recipes

    Shared aroma: furaneol (caramel, strawberry).

  2. Parsley + shallottop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together3,737 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-decadienal (seaweed).

  3. Parsley + garlictop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together9,308 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).

  4. Garlic + shallottop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together2,000 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  5. Clove + shallottop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,677 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Sweetbreads
Main protein; scalding firms them so they hold their shape while stewing.
Butter
Fat that fries the sweetbread pieces, adding richness and browning.
Flour
Light coating with the butter that thickens the stock into a sauce.
Egg yolks
Enrich and thicken the sauce as it gently heats, giving it a smooth, velvety body.
Cream
Adds richness and moisture, softening the sauce's flavour and texture.
Artichoke bottoms or morels
Add tender body and earthy flavour to the stew.

The step that matters

Stirring in the egg yolks. Egg yolks thicken by gently setting as they warm. If the sauce boils after they are added, the proteins curdle and the sauce turns grainy and loses its smooth texture.

Swap the mace

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (butter, flour, onion, clove, parsley, garlic, shallot):

  1. Capersfits better
  2. Thymefits better
  3. Winter savoryfits better
  4. Macethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against butter, flour, onion, clove, parsley, garlic, shallot. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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