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Eels a LA Poulette

A stew of eels cooked in a sauce of butter, flour, wine, water, herbs, mushrooms, lemon, onion, and egg yolk cream.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
From a historical cookbook (Internet Archive) · 14 ingredients
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Why it works: Pepper and lemon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 3% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 27,047 recipes. Both carry trans-2-nonenal, which smells cardboard, fatty. The science ↓

Eels a LA Poulette

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare

  1. Boil the eels in water with vinegar, then drain.

Make the sauce

  1. Melt butter and flour together in a stewpan, avoiding burning.

  2. Add white wine and boiling water to the butter mixture.

  3. Season with salt, pepper, sweet herbs, mushrooms, lemon juice, and onion.

  4. Let the eels stew in this mixture for 30 minutes.

Finish and serve

  1. Beat the egg yolks with cream and add to the stew, warming gently without boiling.

  2. Serve the dish.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Pepper + lemontop 3% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together27,047 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-nonenal (cardboard, fatty).

  2. White wine + mushroomtop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,765 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity).

  3. Butter + mushroomtop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together12,525 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-decenal (waxy, orange).

  4. Butter + white winetop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together5,083 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).

  5. Mushroom + oniontop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together10,626 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-decadienal (seaweed).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Eels
Provide the main protein, becoming tender and flavourful as they stew in the sauce.
Butter
Forms the roux with flour, adding richness and body to the sauce.
Flour
Thickens the butter mixture into a base for the sauce.
Egg yolks
Enrich and thicken the finished sauce when warmed gently with the cream.
Cream
Adds richness and a smooth, silky texture to the sauce.
White wine
Adds acidity and aroma that brighten the rich sauce.

The step that matters

Warming the egg yolk and cream mixture. Egg yolks thicken through gentle heat. If the stew boils after they are added, the proteins can scramble, leaving the sauce grainy and curdled instead of smooth.

Swap the onion

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (vinegar, butter, flour, white wine, pepper, mushroom, lemon):

  1. Shallotfits better
  2. Capsicumfits better
  3. Spinachfits better
  4. Onionthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against vinegar, butter, flour, white wine, pepper, mushroom, lemon. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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