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Pickle Foe Mutton Hams, and Tongues

This recipe uses saltpetre, which may pose food safety risks.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Allspice and coriander match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 4% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 393 recipes. Both carry beta-phellandrene, which smells minty, terpene. The science ↓

Pickle Foe Mutton Hams, and Tongues

Ingredients

Directions

  1. Mix equal parts of coarse sugar, common salt, and coarse sea salt.

  2. Add 1 ounce each of saltpetre and sal prunel for every pound of the mixture.

  3. Incorporate ½ ounce each of ground black pepper, allspice, juniper berries, and coriander seeds.

  4. Bruise or grind the spices, dry them before the fire, and mix them into the salt mixture while hot.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Allspice + coriandertop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together393 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).

  2. Pepper + allspicetop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,395 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  3. Pepper + coriandertop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together5,949 recipes

    Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).

  4. Sugar + allspicetop 24% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together6,938 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-penten-3-one (fish, pungent).

  5. Sugar + coriandertop 31% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together2,749 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-penten-3-one (fish, pungent).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

Swap the coriander

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, pepper, allspice):

  1. Cinnamonfits better
  2. Clovefits better
  3. Nutmegfits better
  4. Corianderthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, pepper, allspice. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

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